Bánh (Though Not Mì For Me)

New and noteworthy native Việt vittles.

Huế Emperors Tray.

Papa Rooster had an urge to stretch his legs and wings, and my suggestion to go for a nature walk didn't cut it for him - too cold for his old limbs, was his excuse. So we changed plans, and for an enrichment excursion for the parentals and an exploration for Sissy and me, we made a semi-impromptu stop at a new-to-us Vietnamese restaurant up near my and Sissy's long-ago stomping grounds instead: Bánh. I had heard of and read about it some time ago, just never had the chance to get over to try it.

Now, we are old school. We have lived in this city almost since the inception of a Vietnamese community here; we know most of the OG Viet folks of the first wave; Papa Rooster and Mama Hen were pillars in their time - among the first in their line of business. I grew up on Vietnamese food back when it was only available at home or in the homes of family friends. We were patrons of the FIRST Vietnamese restaurant in New York City - Phở Bằng in Chinatown, I think - from back in the '80s, and probably among the most frequent and loyal; Mama Hen worked late with Papa Rooster, and for most of the year, seven days a week, Sunday through Saturday, so Vietnamese restaurant takeout freed her from preparing that one meal for us from scratch (takeout and eating out are luxuries I take for granted now and employ regularly to ease some of the pressure of daily living; my dear Mama Hen back then - all those meals prepared from scratch, never a night away from her babies).

Bánh chưng chiên.

That's a long lead-in to say we are loyal to the old ways, the true ways, not easily impressed, and generally skeptical and cast critical palates on the new self-proclaimed Việt establishments muscling in to capitalize on the current mass market appeal of the cuisine. And we are generally downright suspicious of the eateries that pop up in neighborhoods where Vietnamese people don't go or congregate, which is most neighborhoods in New York City - Morningside Heights being a prime example, and the gentrified and gentrifying incarnation of Morningside Heights, moreso.

Xôi xéo.

So we were pleasantly surprised with our lunch. Not everything was exactly on point to Mama Hen's exceedingly high standards, but close enough, and absolutely respectable to these native taste buds. I think our favorite was the bánh chưng chiên, which I've only ever had at home or at my great-aunt's. It is my favorite Tết food (leftover Tết food, to be accurate - but one of those, like post-Thanksgiving sandwiches, that might be tastier than the original incarnation), so it's quite exciting to be able to get it through the year. And Bánh's version is far more crisp than we have ever managed to get it. Xôi xéo was another dish that doesn't generally appear on restaurant menus - a simple homestyle dish, but very tasty. And I've never even heard of bánh đập, so this was a nice introduction.

Bánh đập.

The Huế Emperors Tray and bún bò Huế were part of the Huế Emperor Weekend offerings - which I am guessing is one of the rotating themes that allows for some variation to the menu; they were tasty - less to say here as these dishes we are more accustomed to finding in restaurants. I'll be interested to see what other themes come into circulation, and would definitely be willing to make a trip back.

Bún bò Huế.

Nice to experience - like "Poor Yella Rednecks" last week - some newer, meritorious takes on familiar cultural terrain. Leave it to the young folk (and, yes, were they ever young; Papa Rooster kept remarking on the dewiness of the customers and staff, though he IS 86, so who isn't dewy in comparison - notwithstanding, the staff all spoke very fluent Vietnamese, which was a good sign of authenticity right off the bat) to revive the old ways with some fresh energy. It's good for us older people and out and out old fogies to stretch a little from time to time. (Side note: no physical menus - all QR codes, which I taught both Mama Hen and Papa Rooster to navigate successfully.)